In April 2025, my partner Daniel and I packed our bags to explore the islandof Hispaniola. What was supposed to be an exploratory trip turned into a revelation. Beyond the beaches, we discovered a vibrant, rich, and surprising Dominican Republic. This story recounts the 15 days that gave birth to Terra Dominicana.
Introduction
In April 2025, Daniel and I set out with a simple curiosity: to understand the Dominican Republic for ourselves.
Not as hurried tourists.
Not behind the walls of a resort.
But out in the field.
I was familiar with the image of the destination: turquoise beaches, all-inclusive hotels.
But I wanted to know: “What lies behind this postcard image?”
I never imagined that this trip would redefine my career path.
Santo Domingo: an indescribable energy
“We arrive… and we hear the dominoes”
In Santo Domingo, the first memory isn’t visual. It’s auditory.
“We step out onto the street. And there, I hear dominoes clacking. Loud. Sharp. Steady. ”
We stop. We watch. Men are playing with intensity. All around, young people, older folks, neighbors. People are chatting and laughing.
I quickly realize that life in the Dominican Republic isn’t lived in silence.
Then come the colmados.
Music, plastic chairs, beers shared late into the night.
“Yes, it’s noisy. But it’s a joyful, vibrant way of life.”
A city conscious of its history
Very quickly, people start telling us about the Taínos, Rafael Trujillo, and Christopher Columbus.
What strikes me is their mastery of the historical narrative.
In the Colonial Zone of Santo Domingo, I don’t just see buildings. I see a confident sense of identity.
But it wasn’t just the heritage that won me over.
It was while wandering the streets, meeting Dominicans and French expats, and making countless spontaneous connections that I came to understand something deeper.
“Here, things are happening. Here, people are thinking. Here, people are creating.”
Santo Domingo is the cultural heart of the country. Here, you learn about history, feel the debates, and sense the economic and social dynamics. You come to understand the Dominican Republic in all its complexity.
After just a few days, Daniel and I began to make plans for the future.
“If we were to settle down somewhere, it would be here.”
And that’s how the choice of the capital came about naturally.
Los Tres Ojos: When the Capital Fades Away
Just a few minutes from the colonial zone of Santo Domingo lies Los Tres Ojos National Park. Crystal-clear waters. Silence. Dense vegetation.
“How can you go from the urban hustle and bustle to this in ten minutes?”
The Dominican Republic is starting to shatter all my preconceptions.
Bayahibe and Saona: Choose to Immerse Yourself
We then headed to Bayahibe by guagua (local bus).
“Honestly? I was prepared for a wild ride. But in the end, we just watched a movie while sitting comfortably.”
On Saona Island, we made a choice: to stay right there, in the fishing village of Mano Juan. And we didn’t go on any organized tours—we explored everything on foot or by bike!
Be warned: there are no hotels on the island, and honestly, the experience wasn’t the most comfortable.
We met all sorts of people near the island’s only colmado. Of course.
We also discovered a small local organization dedicated to protecting sea turtles.
“That’s when I realized that Saona wasn’t just a perfect beach. It was a community.”
Still, what really struck us were those dreamy beaches! We knew it already, but that white sand, crystal-clear water, and almost no waves… paradise!
Yes, we also had our best lobster there.
Las Terrenas: the ecotourism destination I absolutely wanted to explore
While Santo Domingo represents the cultural heart of the country, Las Terrenas embodied another essential facet for me: its natural and ecotourism side.
I wanted to understand this region, which people often described to me as a balance between the sea, the jungle, and local initiatives.
As soon as I arrived, the atmosphere changed.
Sea air. A slower pace. A strong French presence, certainly (pétanque courts, familiar accents), but also a true cultural mix.
I got around on a “moto-concho.” I discovered daily life, local realities, and wild, undeveloped beaches!
Yes, there were two power outages during my stay.
But far from being a hindrance, this allowed me to better understand how the country works. To accept its pace. To see its authenticity.
I also discovered three absolutely magnificent beaches on my excursions: Playa Rincón, Playa Madama, and Playa Frontón
The trip to Playa Frontón is quite a wild ride.
“At one point, I wondered if the boat was going to make me regret my decision. ”
And then we entered the cove.
Turquoise water that seemed almost unreal. An impressive cliff. A little beach hut where we sipped fresh coconut water.
Playa Frontón will remain my absolute favorite part of the trip.
But what I loved most about Las Terrenas was the diversity of the people I met: Dominicans passionate about dance, expats involved in local projects, and a shoemaker who repaired shoes and also sold cell phones right next door. This kind of juggling of multiple jobs is much more common there than it is back home.
Let’s go—we’re moving to the Dominican Republic!
People often ask me, “When exactly was that moment?”
There isn’t just one. It’s a series of events.
The dominoes.
The cenotes.
The shared lobster.
The power outages.
The discussions about history.
And that phrase that keeps coming back:
“This destination is too simplistically described. It deserves to be told differently.”
Conclusion
In fifteen days, I didn’t just discover a country. I encountered a culture. An energy. A depth. And I realized that I wanted to settle here, in Santo Domingo, to tell the story of this particular Dominican Republic. Terra Dominicana wasn’t born out of market research. It was born out of a journey. This one.
About the Author
Laura Grenouillet is the founder of Terra Dominicana. This story recounts her first trip to the Dominican Republic in April 2025—the journey that started it all.
